Hints and Tips



Leroy Somer Windlass Repair

Sailbleu refurbishes his SO40DS windlass


But first let me give you the short story again.


The problem started when my windlass slipped, it was impossible to raise the anchor because the chain gypsy did not do her part. It seemed the clutch was worn down, or damaged in some way. I could not tighten up the top-nut in order to put more pressure on the clutch. Eventually, the drum was corroded onto the shaft and also there was no more margin to tighten up the top-nut, but that last part was made clear to me at the end of the story.


With a pulley puller I tried to remove the drum with little or no success. WD40 had no impact, there was just not enough room between the drum and the shaft for infiltrating, the two seem to be glued to one another. Heating up the drum also did not help.


So at the end, with a lot of patience, much brutal pulley puller force, a few wedges, hotair blaster and a rubber hammer to bash the side of the drum I succeeded in getting the drum off.


See picture below:

Once the drum was off, it was obvious why heating up the drum was partially in vain. Because of the typical construction of the drum there was just not enough heat transfer to the centre part which needed to expand.


See picture below;

The picture of the chain gypsy shows a SS spacer as an in between to pressure the clutch


See picture below;

To get more margin to tighten up the top-nut I added an extra spacer so the drum gets higher,

see picture below. The following picture in the next section indicates why the extra spacer is necessary.


If those two spacers would decide to interactively slip, I can abrade the two touching surfaces with a grinder in a later stage to enhance the friction.


See picture below;

The picture below gives you an idea on how the drum is pushed on to the clutch. The top-nut is resting on an inner edge of the drum so it can squeeze that drum down. However, that picture also makes clear the inner edge is at the same level as the square part of the shaft. That means the top-nut is not only touching the inner edge of the drum, but also the shaft. That means the top-nut has no function at all and the clutch was left to here own devices.


See picture below;


This following picture gives a better view on the inner edge of the drum.

These pictures below show you the supplementary thin spacer I used to get some elevating of the top-nut and also to straighten up the inner edge of the drum. It fits exactly into the drum, and the inner diameter is somewhat bigger than the square part of the shaft (diagonally speaking that is).

OK, problem solved.

So, maybe somewhere in this World there is someone with the same windlass issue that I had and maybe he/she will google his/her way to this board and find all the help they can get. I know I did, because I also got some tips on a Dutch board (I'm Belgian you see, oops, excuse me, I'm Flemish !!) that leads me to solve and save.


Good luck


Sailbleu - Sun Odyssey 40DS