The following article describes fitting on extra engine access hatch that I have made in Full Circle, our Sun Odyssey 35.
This is cut into the heads wall, and is a standard Lalizas hatch, set in with a good seal of Sikaflex 291 and a dozen 4x3/4 inch countersunk screws.
To be honest, I should have set it further forward by about 40 mm, to butt up against the shower door frame trim, but I am revamping the access in the aft cabin too, which I will post pics of later.
Remove shower door, 4 screws and backing plates for access Mark out a template on paper taken from the hatch you are going to use. Mine is a Lalizas 450x300mm.
Tape the template into position allowing for the flange of the hatch frame Remove with a knife and soldering iron, all the plastic web supports except for the vertical and horizontal webs on the hatch door. You should now have 4 areas.
The sound insulation I used is EC Smith 25mm (not as thick as the standard Jeanneau insulation) which is aluminum foil covered and has a heavy layer in. Cut to size, and score through the foam and the layer pad, but to not cut through the aluminium foil. The scores must match the remaining plastic webs on the door. Use spray contact adhesive on the layer and the door, wait until almost dry, then stick the foam to the door and work it down. This should be just overflush to the door.
Remove all the engine access hatches in the aft cabin over the gearbox area.
Unscrew the bottom support frame (held by 4 long posidrive screws) and cut away the cable ties.
In the engine bay, cut all the wiring loom cable ties and move the loom away from the wall. Remove the conduit, held by an annoying amount of cable tie bases!
Cut the wall out with a jigsaw. This may interfere with the ply upright support, so check carefully. I actually cut through mine as I am remodelling the aft cabin area for more stowage.
Smooth off with a surform or similar. Use a hacksaw blade to cut the existing engine bay insulation to the new hatch size and remove.
Use sikaflex to seal the exposed plywood Apply sikaflex to the hatch frame flange, fit the door to the frame, fit the assembly to the aperture, and screw to the heads wall. You may find that the corners need a firm press as there is no screws in the corner of the Lalizas one.
Note, I have installed mine with the door hinging upward, which can then be hooked on the shower door retaining clip.
You will need to glue/screw a new ply support for the conduit into place, but I have not done this as I am changing the loom routing for the battery cables (4th battery installation) Re fix all the cable ties, refix the bottom support frame.
Bingo, you can now access the starter motor, the alternator and the heat exchanger.
Jim Dew - Full Circle - Sun Odyssey 35